You may think you know the boot of Europe because you’ve eaten at an Italian restaurant, watched Mafia movies or shopped in your city’s Little Italy neighborhood. However, most of these Americanisms are missing from the real country. Rather than seeing the country as a unified whole, think of it as a collection of principalities, each with its own cuisine, customs and dialect. Then a few tips will help you negotiate the patchwork of experiences that is Italy.
Lodgings
Don’t expect to find any hotel bargains in the middle of summer. However, visiting during the low season of November through April means you can bargain for the room rate. Do that directly with the manager or owner. To lower your costs, ask to exclude the free breakfast or request a room with a bathroom down the hall. When you sign in, the receptionist will ask to keep your passport for a few hours so she can register you with the police. This is required by law, so hand it over and enjoy the city. When you get back, she’ll return your passport to you.
Time
Though larger stores, international fast food restaurants and tourists shops in the big cities stay open all day, every day, almost everything else is open Monday to Saturday, from about 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., before closing for lunch. Establishments are then open again from about 3:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Museums tend to close on Monday. Much of the nation is closed in August, when the natives take their vacation and travel to other countries. Major holidays include Christmas, New Year’s, Easter, the Epiphany (January 6), Liberation Day (April 25), May Day (May 1), Festival of the Republic (June 2), Farragosto (November 1), All Saints Day (November 1) and the Immaculate Conception (December 8).
Eating Out
Italians tend to dine later: from 7 to 10:30 a.m. for breakfast, 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 7:30 to 10 p.m. for dinner. Many restaurants are closed outside of these hours. You may notice several price levels. You eat your cheapest meals standing up at a bar or counter. Inside table service is more expensive. Outside table seating, especially in popular tourist venues like the Piazza San Marco, may cost a small fortune. There is no minimum drinking age, and local wines may be cheaper than sodas or bottled water. Often wine is the best or only choice because of the heavily chlorinated tap water. If a service charge is included, tipping isn’t necessary. Otherwise, 5 to 10 percent is customary. You may end up sharing a table with strangers, especially in smaller eateries. It’s common for locals to spend hours having a leisurely meal, so if you want the check, you must ask for it. To save money, ask for the “piatto del giorno” (plate of the day), which typically includes three courses for one price.
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